Craftsman 4-ft X 6-ft Storage Shed

The completed shed with a slanted roof image first. Slant roof style is also known as a skillion, shed or lean-to. It is a single sloping roof and can be thought of equally half of a pitched roof.

When I was in the process of moving to my new house, I knew that I couldn't take my shed with me. It was my kickoff ane! It was a 6×8 beauty with a gable roof and a double door. It took almost 6 months (ugh) for me to complete. I was devastated!

To brand up for my loss, I consoled myself with the knowledge that I'd need to build a new storage shed to house all my stuff. I'd accumulated a snow blower, lawn mower, generator and much more. It would be my second shed in 2 years. My new infant!

In this postal service, I'll walk you through the step-by-step process of building my new shed from scratch.

How to Build a Slanted Roof Shed: Step past Footstep

Step i: Gathering Requirements

As I began thinking well-nigh my new shed, I considered my needs. I decided to build a bigger shed with more space. I wouldn't have to move the lawn mower to get to the ladder, or the snowblower to dig out the generator. I'd even accept space to store some building materials instead of in the garage.

I planned out my requirements; I didn't desire any fancy features or dormers. I wanted something practical. Thinking about my other shed, I made a list:

Roof:

Due to the climate and a lot of snow, it needed a greater gradient.
Something easy and applied I could build on my own.
Easy to install roofing materials.

Foundation:

I didn't want my shed sitting on the footing.
Elevated would mean drier and it would last longer.

Siding:

Easy and inexpensive to install.

Footstep two: Check Local Constabulary Brake

My outset footstep was to look up the local edifice regulations for some answers:

Do I need a edifice allow?
What is the greatest size shed I tin build without, and with, a permit?
Are there whatsoever restrictions on building materials?
Any setbacks?
Is at that place a maximum height for a shed?
Whatever requirements on door widths?

I then checked with the local utilities to ensure my shed wouldn't interfere with their services. To exist condom, I also checked with my neighborhood association to see if they had any restrictions.

According to my town regulations, I could build a shed up to 10×14 without a building allow. I emailed the local building department to run across how they measure out the shed size; past outside perimeter foundation footprint, or the roof projection.

They responded quickly and politely. They confirmed that I didn't need any permits and included other helpful information. The size of the shed would be calculated past the foundation footprint. Also, the maximum height of a shed, measured from ground level to the highest elevation of the roof, is set at fourteen′ and must never exceed the top of the house.

The regulations allowed a storage shed to be built in the side yard, backyard, or in the rear setback; only never over the septic field. Included in their answer was as well a list of approved materials for exterior siding which was useful.

Step 3: Choose Size and the Way of the Shed

Here'southward my setup: I reviewed what I needed to fit in the shed today, considered a few wants for the future, looked at my budget, and came up with the size. I'd seen a lot of sheds but had some specific ideas in mind, after doing some research; I came upwardly with my shed style.

Size

I decided to take full advantage of the regulations and build a x x 14 shed.

Shed mode

I wanted a simple roof. I didn't want ridges or valleys which are a lot of piece of work and tin leak. I decided on a Slanted Roof. It's like to a shed or lean-to roof, or a clerestory roof, but has one visible difference. It has a greater slope. Basically, a slanted roof way is a apartment roof tilted loftier upward at 1 edge to create a very steep slope.

Advantages:

Significantly cheaper to build than a gable or multi-slope roof since there'south less textile in the roof.
No ridges or valleys to leak.
Faster and easier to build. No complicated angles or cuts.
A higher wall on i side for ladders or storage.
Clear roof space without truss or rafters.
Sheds rain and snow apace.

Disadvantages:

Expensive to convert a mono pitched roof to a multi-gradient roof since all walls need to get the same height.
Snow can build upwardly against the lower roof wall and cause dampness or rot in the wall.
Fast run-off of rain or snow can cause ground erosion behind the shed.

Step four: Decide a Location for the Shed

The adjacent step is the most important function: observe the all-time location for my shed.

The building regulations require the shed to be a minimum of five' from the property line, v' from the house, and 5' from any other buildings.

I decided to place my shed 7' from the fence with my neighbour. It would hide their shed and give the trees room to grow. It as well placed the shed closer to my driveway which would make information technology easier to get my snowfall blower into activity.

Pace 5: Prepare the Structure Site

Once I decided on the site for my shed, I cleared the area of basis cover. I added 2' on each side of the shed perimeter and hammered in wooden stakes at the corners to give me the area I needed. I removed any sod and the top layer of soil, and and so slightly compacted the site to pack downwardly any loose soil.

Pace vi: Build Shed Foundation

One of the of import decisions when building a shed is the foundation. It provides a flat, level, stable base on which to build your shed. The foundation also helps to keep the shed off the ground preventing dampness and rot.

I decided to employ concrete deck blocks like I'd used on my beginning shed. I used adjustable four×4 steel deck supports which fit into the deck blocks to make leveling easier. I establish these on auction at my local domicile improvement store only you lot can find similar deck supports on Amazon.

Why I cull this blazon of foundation?

Easy to build a stable base for the shed
An inexpensive base, even with the basis preparation and gravel.
The shed is off the basis allowing underneath ventilation and clean storage on the gravel.
The main benefit, information technology's very easy to level the base of operations during the construction. Likewise, if the ground settles and any of the blocks sink the steel deck supports make it easy to re-level.

Here's the plan of foundation

I used 24 deck blocks and 24 adjustable 4×4 deck supports. I wanted to brand sure nothing would make the flooring sag…e'er! I could almost store a tank in my shed!

If I were to do it once again, I'd reduce the number of blocks and supports past half and add together galvanized joist hangers for blocking to add structural rigidity to the floor frame. The total and linear load for #ii grade 2×half dozen on a 4' span is 303 pounds per linear human foot.

It is an first-class foundation for motorcycle sheds or sheds with heavy machinery, similar a lawn tractor, but for my needs it was overkill.

Once I had the deck blocks and the adaptable iv×4 supports, I needed to comprise the supports into the blocks. Using concrete mix and following the step by pace procedure I secured the supports into the blocks.

Here are the steps:

Movie 1: Clean whatever loose material from the patio blocks.
Picture 2: Clean any oils or grease off the adaptable 4X4 support.
Flick 3: Detach the back up.

Motion-picture show 4: This is how I chose to install the supports.
Picture five: With the supports installed this fashion in that location would be more rigidity and greater support.
Picture half dozen: To keep concrete out of the bolt column I taped it closed.

Picture 7 & eight: Moisture the physical block to form a better connection with the new concrete. Fill the pigsty and slots in the deck block, then push the taped end of the 4×4 back up into the hole in the physical block.

Picture show 9: Ensure the support plate is angled so it is resting on the concrete block as well as the new concrete. Clean upward any mess and smooth the fresh concrete. Now let the concrete cure.

I recommend laying out all the blocks together and doing the aforementioned step to each block earlier moving to the adjacent step.

While the blocks are curing, put down the garden fabric and spread out a level layer of gravel.

I laid out the deck blocks according to the plan where they would line up with the floor construction. Leveled the blocks and used the adjustable supports to level the flooring structure.

Related: How to Build Shed Base of operations with Deck Blocks

Step seven: Build Shed Floor

Now the fun and work brainstorm!

What You lot'll Need :

Tape Mensurate
48-Inch Level
Circular Saw or Miter Saw
Nail Gun

Assemble the tools you lot'll need and then you don't have to get looking for them after: hammer, saw, level, wrench, screwdriver, record measure and pencil. Have the nails and screws handy too.

You don't demand any fancy tools, but a chop saw makes curt piece of work of cuts and angles and a circular saw is great for cutting plywood. I too got actually lucky; my local home comeback store was liquidating Paslode Impulse cordless framing nailers. I was able to score one and it saved me a lot of time.

The flooring frame was actually simple; vi pressure level treated 2x6x14' and 2 pressure level treated 2x6x10' planks. My local supplier didn't have any 14' planks so I got 16' instead. I knew the extra lumber wouldn't get to waste material.

The adjustable 4×4 deck supports are designed for true iv×4 lumber then I needed to add spacers. The leftover pieces from the 2x6x16'south came in handy.

I sealed the end cuts with CopperCoat Green wood preservative.

To secure the adjustable supports, joists and blocks together, I used #viii x ii in. deck screws. It is a good idea to check that the joist structure is foursquare earlier securing information technology.

I added pressure treated two×6 blocks about every four' to create a grid manner floor base. The blocks prevent the flooring joists from twisting under load and provide more support and then there'd be less bounciness between the joists. I used my new nailer to fastening the boards and blocking with band shank galvanized framing nails. Definitely a time saver!

The filigree created past the blocking.

Before I began to attach the 3/4 inch pressure treated plywood, I again checked that the floor structure was foursquare and level.

A x×14 base means some the plywood would have to be cut. I too didn't want to have to crawl effectually under the shed someday to tighten the adjustable iv×4 supports.

With this in heed, I planned the layout for the plywood and so I can remove ii inside pieces

and have access to all the inner blocks.

I used #eight×2 inch deck screws to fasten the plywood. All I have to do to accommodate whatever of the inside supports is remove one or both of the plywood pieces and tighten or loosen the necessary nut(s).

Stride 8: Building the Walls

When planning my shed I adamant where windows and the doors would go. I decided on 2×4 lumber on sixteen-inch centers for the walls, and 2×six for the rafters. I'd also need 2×6 lumber for the window and door headers. I then laid out the stud plan for the wall structure. This made it easier to make a materials list of what needed to exist purchased.

There are several methods to purchase lumber. Yous tin call your local supplier and accept them evangelize the materials on your list. This works great if you don't have admission to a truck or a trailer. Simply, you go what they selection which may not be what you'd pick if doing information technology yourself. There may besides be a delivery charge.

If you take access to a truck or trailer, so y'all can pick your lumber…usually. Some lumber yards don't want you lot handing the lumber for diverse reasons. Near Box Stores let yous to pick your own lumber though. If y'all tin can selection your own lumber, here are a number of things to watch for.

Twists: Expect along the narrow edge of the lumber, if it has a noticeable twist, put it back. It volition be hard to straighten and makes attaching drywall or sheathing difficult.

Curve: Look along the narrow edge again, if the lumber bends slightly to the left or right, it is still usable. It tin can straighten with blocking, or when nailed or screwed to a direct slice; as in a doubling up for a trimmer or corner.

Warped, Curved, or Arched: Look forth the flat length of the lumber. If the lumber bends slightly to the left or right it will grade an arch or a dip horizontally. It is still useable for joists or the trusses/rafters, not great as a stud. Ensure they are laid arch up; the weight of the floor or roof material (gravity) may pressure level it straight.

Pro Tip: Buy actress lumber for blocking (noggins) the walls at the iv-foot height. It keeps the studs from twisting and gives wood to nail capsule or drywall to. Information technology also provides shelving between the studs.

Pro Tip: Ever measure the dimensions of your lumber. If yous demand 12 feet and get ten instead, you won't be happy.

With the lumber at the build site, I was set to begin. Using the plywood floor equally a work table, I paired the tiptop and bottom plate for the dorsum wall next apartment on the deck.

I ensured they were 14 anxiety long, then following my stud programme I marked where the studs would become, drawing the lines with a small rafter square; mark an X on the correct side of the line where the stud would go.

I carefully measured one stud and cut it to length; remembering that for a 6-ft. wall height I needed to decrease a double top plate and the sill plate. Using that stud, I marked the rest of the studs for that wall and cut them too.

I then laid out the studs betwixt the top and bottom plate, lined them up with the marks, and reached for my hammer. My handy dandy nailer made brusque work of nailing the plates to the studs. In one case the wall was congenital, I slid it off the deck and leaned it out of the manner against the fence.

I used the same process to build the windowless side wall. Remembering to cut the summit and lesser plates 7 inches curt of 10 feet so they fit between the forepart and back walls.

The studs were the same length as those in the back wall. Subsequently nailing information technology together, I ensured information technology was square and nailed two opposing diagonal 2x4s to hold it square. Nailing it to each stud and plate it crossed. I then slid information technology out of the fashion and leaned it against the tree.

Pro Tip: Employ screws to attach the diagonal braces, easier to remove.

The side wall with the window had a few differences. I used a double ii×6 header above the window. Sandwiched between the 2x6s I used ½" plywood spacers.

The header transfers the weight of the structure above the window and carries it through the king stud-trimmer stud combination to the flooring. The distance between the header and the rough sill and the two trimmer studs is the rough opening for the 27 ½" 10 27" high window.

Don't forget the cripple studs between the rough sill and the lesser plate of the wall. After careful measuring and cutting, I repeated the steps followed for the other end wall.

The last wall was the tallest (9 anxiety) and heaviest wall with the nearly openings. Once built information technology would be the first to erect. I laid out the bottom plate and marked the stud locations, including king and trimmer studs for the door and window.

This window would be 27 ½" 10 37 high. Regulations restricted door size at a maximum of 6 feet; so I framed the crude opening for a 76 ½" high ten vi' wide door.

I framed the ii ends of this wall with triple studs. The outer stud connected the terminate of the top plate and lesser plate. The middle supported the end of the top plate to the lesser plate.

And the inner stud supported the double sill plate of the upper windows, which acted as the top plate for the studs. I used a double ii×half dozen header to a higher place the door and the window with plywood spacers sandwiched betwixt.

Using the skillion roof design meant I could have windows up most the eves. The elevation plate for the large wall I rotated on edge and used ½" spacers betwixt the 2 2x4s.

This made the 2x4s a header to carry the roof weight above the high windows, and likewise a top plate. I used double 2x4s to back up the stud wall height plate and the wall top plate/beam.

The double ii×4 supports were equally spaced across the wall creating 5 openings 29 ¾" wide x xiv ¾" high. Once I had this wall together, I ensured it was square and again nailed two opposing diagonal 2x4s to hold it foursquare. I was at present ready to stand up the walls upwards.

Four stud corner: I used a 4-stud corner to create a stiff corner and post for supporting the roof. This configuration also provides more material for nailing exterior sheathing to, and provides support for attaching interior drywall (if needed).

Attach blocks forth the perimeter of the floor to prevent the wall from sliding off the base of operations as you elevator information technology into position.

The Challenge: How to raise the heavy front wall alone (without a helper)?

My Solution: With a auto jack!

I realize there are other ways to lift a wall by yourself, and mine wasn't peradventure the safest, but information technology was creative and information technology worked. No thing what method you choose, know your escape routes to rubber!

On a 24-hour interval that wasn't windy, I lifted the height edge of the wall and put some blocks nether it. Once it was high plenty off the floor, I slid the car jack under information technology.

I secured a couple of straps to the upper beam then I could prevent the wall from leaning out once it was upward. I used cut-offs from building the wall so I had different lengths for bracing and lifting. Before each elevator with the machine jack, I ensure it wouldn't roll too.

Next time I'll attach a long 2×4 caryatid on the outside of both ends and lay information technology out on the ground so that they elevate in toward the foundation as the wall lifts.

As the wall lifts, college they human activity as braces too.

With the wall vertically leveled, I secured diagonal braces to the upper part of the wall and to stakes hammered into the ground.

Once the large wall was level and secured in place, I nailed the bottom plate to the floor. I and then lifted the end walls into place, leveling and nailing them to the floor and front wall.

I placed the bottom plate of the back wall onto the floor. Nailed in perimeter blocks to forbid it from falling off the floor, and lifted the wall upward until it butted into the two end walls.

I attached nailing blocks to the floor deck and leveled and braced the walls. The gable ends were built in place on the cease walls.

Related: Shed Insulation Guide

Step 9: Shed Wall Capsule

I used 23/32 in. x iv ft. ten viii ft. T&1000 OSB to sheath the walls with 2" deck screws to spike them in place. Information technology was a bit of fun installing it solitary. 4 ft. x8 ft. capsule fits horizontally or vertically on 16" center stud walls.

I went vertically for ii reasons. I wouldn't accept to elevator up a sheet to sit down on another sheet; and less take chances of moisture sitting on a vertical seam vs a horizontal seam.

Pro Tip: Attach a level plank or cake to the perimeter of the platform face at the superlative the sheathing volition start. This provides a rest for the sheathing to sit on and frees up a hand or ii for fitting the T&One thousand and for fastening.

Pro Tip: Ensure the groove is articulate and open before putting the canvass up; saves a lot of frustration.

I used felt newspaper (tar paper) to wrap the walls for several reasons. Tar paper is cheaper and dries faster than Typar. A 3'x72' scroll of #15 felt paper costs around $xv, a 3'x100' roll of Typar is nearly $50 in my local. I used 2 rolls of felt newspaper.

I began wrapping the shed at the bottom and worked my fashion up; overlapping the pinnacle layer over the bottom to shed any wet abroad from the wood.

I used a hand stapler and a lot of galvanized staples. Side by side fourth dimension I'll use a hammer stapler, it'south easier on the paw.

Stride x: Build a Skillion Roof

The textile you chose to embrace your roof with is very important. It is what keeps water or snowmelt from percolating through into your shed. It protects the woods of your shed from rot and bug and rodent impairment, and from the elements. An important decision with many choices; cobblestone, steel, aluminum, clay, slate, or cedar milkshake.

There are advantages and disadvantages to all roofing materials, practice your research and make your decision. I chose asphalt shingles. The toll was right, colour adequate, and with the single slope roof design and management my shed faced, only my neighbor would see them.

Advantages:

Inexpensive! Cobblestone shingles are 1 of the least expensive roofing materials. They frequently go on sale too.
Easy installation even for a beginner. Follow the instructions on the parcel wrapper or check out videos online.
Asphalt shingles are widely available in different colors and textures.

Disadvantages:

Will degrade with time; may last 7 to 20 years before needing to be replaced.
Are a petroleum product so an ecology issue and cost when disposing of them.
Susceptible to current of air and estrus harm. They transfer the solar gain into your edifice.

Ventilation

If your shed is fairly airtight, you lot'll need to put in ventilation; specially if storing gasoline or pesticides in it. No sense poisoning yourself. Add a vent in each gable terminate almost the roof line.

This allows cross ventilation and the roof overhang adds some protection to the vents. I went with the natural ventilation through the gaps between the roof and the walls. I may need to screen them to keep bugs and critters out though.

The Roof

I used 2x6x16ft pine for the rafters.

Angle cut the ends, notched for the walls, then installed them at 16" centers.

Simpson Potent-Necktie xviii-gauge hurricane ties to help secure each rafter.

I built ladder ends to go over the gables for the overhang at each end. I then added blocking betwixt each rafter every 4 ft. to support the edges of the capsule, and to preclude the rafters from twisting under snow load.

The fascia boards beyond the ends of the rafters prevent twisting and provide a finished edge.

I sheathed the roof with 23/32 in. 10 4 ft. x 8 ft. T&G OSB. A fun challenge is doing it lonely. I covered the OSB with tar newspaper; starting across the depression edge first and working in overlapping layers to the high edge.

I left plenty to fold over the fascia boards. I used aluminum nails to attach the aluminum drip edge. The aluminum fascia slides upwards nether the baste edge and is attached to the fascia lath with aluminum nails. It often hangs ½" below the fascia lath and the soffit sits on the bottom lip.

Follow the instructions on the shingle wrapper for proper installation. I used ane½" electro-galvanized roofing nails to adhere the shingles.

Pro Tip: Before lifting sheathing onto the roof, build yourself a "ladder". Lean and secure two 2x4s or 2x6s planks against the fascia lath of the low wall; angled from the ground to the roof.

Adhere a horizontal "stride" to the ii planks upon which to rest the capsule. The wider the "pace", the more than pieces it will agree. Place several pieces of sheathing onto the step so the stick up to a higher place the roof line. You can and so stand on the wall top plate or the rafters and lift each piece upwardly equally needed; less going upwards and down a ladder.

Pro Tip: Use pressure treated lumber for the fascia boards and cease rafters.

Step xi: Build Double Shed Doors

E'er scraped your duke trying to carry something through a door?

I built my shed with a half-dozen' wide double door since information technology was the largest the Regulations immune. I tin open up one or both. It'southward much easier to move equipment in or out of the shed.

Mine open up outward, then I don't waste storage space within. Too, information technology'due south easy to seal against the elements and rodents. And I don't scrape my knuckles.

Remember to cut the sill plate out of your doorway.

I decided to build my ain door. I used 1x6x8ft T&Chiliad knotty pine for the door. The T&G has depression shrinkage, and shouldn't have gaps or warps in the future. The cross and diagonal braces on the back are leftover 2×four lumber. The thicker wood makes it stronger and gives more wood for the hinges to adhere to.

Cutting the pine to length, glue the groove and push together, and and then adhere to the back braces with one½" screws. I gave the doors 2 coats of white paint. It covered the knots, but with time some would become visible.

The doors were heavy, so I used 8-inch heavy duty bound T-hinges. The springs would help keep the doors shut.
To amend the security of the shed, I replaced one of the screws in each with a commodities.

Pro Tip: The diagonal braces always betoken downward and into the hanging jamb; never away (apart from former western movies).

Related: 31 Ideas and Plans on Edifice A Shed Door

Step 12: Frame the Windows

Your shed should take at to the lowest degree 1 window. It lets light in and makes it easier to come across. If it opens, it tin also let fresh air in so the door doesn't accept to stay open. The Skillion Roof fashion makes information technology easy to put extra windows upward loftier to let light in without making the contents of the shed visible to unwanted visitors.

I cutting the felt newspaper diagonally from corner to corner at the windows and door. Wrapped the felt into the opening and stapled it in place.

I and so used ane×4 fence boards painted with 2 coats of white to frame and trimmed out the windows and door.

The windows are made from virtually unbreakable polycarbonate sheets. The front end and side windows were cut from 0.118 in. clear polycarbonate sheets. The upper windows are made from 1/4 in. clear multiwall polycarbonate sail panels.

I used a 7-1/four″ 40-molar circular saw blade to make the cuts. To avert scratches, I didn't remove the protective film from the sheets until the cuts were washed. I clamped the panels to my workbench so they wouldn't vibrate or move. An aluminum guide rail kept my cuts direct.

I installed the window pieces using nailing strips. I added decorative grids to the inside of the lower windows which likewise add some rigidity to the plastic window.

Step thirteen: Install Siding

The local building department provided me with a list exterior siding that I could utilize. Originally I was planning to use T&G pino planks. After calculating the cost and considering the hassle of staining the pine every ii – iii years, I went with vinyl siding.

Advantages:

Cheap! Vinyl is an inexpensive product if you pick beige, white, gray, light blue or khaki. If you lot want a depression volume color or profile, information technology will cost more than.
Durable! Vinyl is a very forgiving and flexible material. Information technology can have bangs and scrapes and stand upwardly to about any atmospheric condition if installed correctly. The color also doesn't fade.
Maintenance free; once installed properly the siding seldom requires any maintenance. It may require a hosing down to remove dust or dirt, but no painting or staining every 2-iii years.
Easy, almost "no-skills-required" installation. Follow the simple instructions and measure out carefully, it'southward quick and piece of cake.
Information technology'south also a waterproof barrier for your shed and its contents.

Disadvantages:

Extreme temperatures are one of the few disadvantages to vinyl siding. Vinyl will aggrandize at hot temperatures and contract on cold days. This usually isn't a problem if properly installed. It can shrink and flex without find. Merely when cut and installed at cold temperatures, it tin can warp at hot temperatures. This can brand it susceptible to current of air impairment and looks awful.
Oil based products can stain vinyl, so exist conscientious when cleaning paint brushes and machinery.
When installing vinyl, recall that cut edges are sharp. Accept some ring-aids available.

Installing the vinyl siding was piece of cake. I just followed the manufacturer'southward instructions. Fifty-fifty the tools are unproblematic! A hammer and the same galvanized roofing nails used for the shingles. Fiskars scissors to cut the siding, and I rented a snap lock punch to put boom holes where needed.

Begin with the starter strip at the lesser and attach the outside corners. Make sure these are level! Install the flashing and J-channels for the windows and doors, and the under-sill trim too.

Once these were all in identify, I installed the siding panels.

The siding projection simply took me one weekend!

Toll of DIY Edifice 10×14 Storage Shed

Now for the question how much did this cost me. Right around $3,800.

Final Thoughts

Five years afterward:

Building this single sloped roof shed was an excellent learning experience. Preplanning was essential to the build. The shed way allowed more windows near the high wall roofline which adds a lot of light.

The greater roof slope sheds snowfall and water hands likewise. I shortly take ample space for storage and no squeak or bounce to the flooring. And information technology looks Awesome!

Hopefully, this article has provided you with some useful information on how to build a slanted roof shed . Your comments are appreciated. If you lot know someone who is thinking about, for instance, building a shed to store a bicycle, share with them if you liked it.

Eugene has been a DIY enthusiast for most of his life and loves being creative while inspiring creativity in others. He is passionately interested in dwelling improvement, renovation and woodworking.